The Tool Desk
Outbyte PC Repair FREERepair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →Outbyte Driver Updater FREEScan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Changing your own oil is straightforward when you have the correct oil, filter, tools, and a safe way to reach the underside of the car. The details are not universal: oil capacity, viscosity, filter type, drain-plug torque, service interval, and oil-life-monitor reset procedure all depend on the vehicle.
Use your owner’s manual as the final authority. A generic oil-change chart or a filter that “looks right” is not enough, and a mistake under the car can cause a serious leak or engine damage.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
What You Need Before Starting
Gather the following:
- The correct engine oil and enough quantity for your engine
- A new oil filter for the exact engine
- A new drain-plug crush washer or gasket, if required
- A drain pan that can hold more than the engine’s stated oil capacity
- A correctly sized socket, preferably a six-point socket
- An oil-filter wrench, if needed
- A funnel
- Nitrile or oil-resistant gloves and safety glasses
- Rags or shop towels
- Wheel chocks
- A floor jack and properly rated jack stands, or vehicle-rated ramps
- A torque wrench if the manufacturer specifies drain-plug or filter torque
- A sealed container for transporting used oil
Some cars use a traditional spin-on filter. Others use a cartridge element inside a plastic or metal filter housing. Check the manual and inspect the replacement filter before you begin so you know which procedure applies.
1. Confirm the Oil, Filter, and Service Information
Before buying parts, check the owner’s manual for:
#1 Best Overall
- GENUINE OEM: Original Toyota/Lexus factory oil filter part number 90915-YZZN1, ensuring perfect fit and optimal performance for your vehicle
- COMPATIBILITY: Specifically engineered for Toyota and Lexus vehicles, maintaining manufacturer specifications and warranty requirements
- SUPERIOR FILTRATION: Advanced filter design captures harmful engine-damaging particles while maintaining proper oil flow
- QUALITY CONSTRUCTION: Heavy-duty housing and high-grade filter media provide reliable protection throughout the entire service interval
- EASY INSTALLATION: Direct replacement filter with standard threading for quick and simple oil change maintenance
- The SAE viscosity grade, such as
0W-20,5W-30, or0W-16 - The required performance specification, such as the applicable API or ILSAC category
- Oil capacity with a filter change and, if listed, without a filter change
- The correct filter part number or specification
- Drain-plug torque
- The normal and severe-service oil-change intervals
- The oil-life-monitor reset procedure
Viscosity is only one part of the specification. An oil with the right number on the bottle can still be unsuitable if it does not meet the manufacturer’s required performance standard. API identifies ILSAC GF-7A as the current standard for many gasoline-engine oils and GF-7B for 0W-16 oils, but your vehicle’s manual determines what belongs in your engine.
Do not assume the published capacity should be poured in all at once. Some old oil remains in the engine, filter housing, oil cooler, and passages after draining.
2. Park and Support the Car Safely
- Park on firm, level ground.
- Set the parking brake.
- Put an automatic transmission in Park or a manual transmission in gear.
- Switch off the engine and remove the key.
- Chock the wheels that stay on the ground.
- If lifting the car, use the manufacturer’s approved lifting points.
- Lower the vehicle onto properly rated jack stands or use ramps rated for the vehicle.
Never work underneath a car supported only by a hydraulic floor jack. The jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands or approved ramps must support it while you are underneath.
Inspect stands and ramps before use. Do not use equipment that is bent, damaged, unstable, or subject to a recall. If you cannot safely reach the drain plug and filter, do not improvise with stacked wood, household objects, or an inadequately rated jack.
3. Warm the Oil Briefly
Run the engine for a few minutes, then switch it off. Warm oil flows more easily than cold oil, but you do not want a fully hot engine. Exhaust components and the oil itself can cause severe burns.
Never remove the oil cap, drain plug, or filter while the engine is running.
Rank #2
- SUPERIOR ENGINE PROTECTION: Designed for severe driving conditions including stop-and-go traffic, towing, and dusty environments
- 99% DIRT TRAPPING EFFICIENCY: Advanced blended media captures microscopic particles with 99% efficiency at 26 microns, helping extend engine life and maintain peak performance (Tested on WIX 51515)
- EXTENDED SERVICE LIFE: Meets or exceeds OE recommended change intervals, lasting up to 15,000 miles
- TOOL-FREE, EFFICIENT DESIGN: Top-mounted cartridge with precision-fit sealing components allows for easy, tool-free installation; Reduces impact by replacing only the filter element, not the entire housing
- COMPATIBILITY NOTE: Verify vehicle fitment by entering vehicle information in the part finder stripe to ensure this is the correct filter for your vehicle
4. Locate the Oil-Filler Cap, Drain Plug, and Filter
Open the hood and identify:
- The engine-oil filler cap
- The dipstick, if fitted
- The oil pan and drain plug
- The spin-on filter or cartridge-filter housing
- Any plastic under-engine splash shield that must be removed
Remove the oil-filler cap before draining. This can help oil flow out smoothly. If the car has an undertray, remove only the required fasteners and keep them organized. Reinstall the panel when finished because it protects components from water, dirt, and road debris.
Crashes, No Sound, or Screen Glitches?
Random freezes, missing sound and display glitches usually trace back to one bad driver. Find and replace yours safely.Free scan · under a minuteWindows Errors? Fix Them Before They Spread
Repair common Windows errors and clear accumulated junk for a smoother, more stable PC - no reinstall needed.Free scan · no reinstall5. Drain the Old Oil
- Put on gloves and safety glasses.
- Place the drain pan under the drain plug, allowing for the oil stream to travel sideways when the plug first comes out.
- Loosen the plug with the correct socket.
- Finish unscrewing it by hand while pressing it toward the oil pan.
- Move your hand away as the plug comes free.
- Let the oil drain until it has slowed to an occasional drip.
- Inspect the plug, its threads, and its washer or gasket.
Replace a crush washer or gasket if the manual identifies it as single-use, or if it is damaged, flattened, cracked, or missing. Do not substitute a washer with a different inner diameter or thickness.
What if the drain plug is stuck?
Stop if the plug is already rounded or will not loosen with a correctly fitting tool. Continuing to force it can damage the oil pan, particularly if the pan is aluminum. A repair shop can remove a seized or damaged plug with the appropriate equipment.
6. Replace the Oil Filter
For a spin-on filter
- Move the drain pan beneath the filter because oil will spill from it.
- Loosen the filter counterclockwise with your hand or a filter wrench.
- Remove it by hand once it is loose.
- Confirm that the old rubber gasket came off with the filter.
- Clean the filter-mounting surface.
- Apply a thin film of fresh engine oil to the new filter’s rubber gasket.
- Thread the new filter on by hand.
- Tighten it only to the vehicle or filter manufacturer’s specification.
Check for the old gasket every time. Installing a new filter over the old gasket can create a double seal. The filter may leak or blow off, quickly losing most of the engine’s oil.
Do not routinely pre-fill a spin-on filter. Some filters mount sideways or upside down, making pre-filling messy and ineffective. Follow the filter or vehicle instructions instead.
Quick wins for a faster PC:
Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →For a cartridge filter
- Remove the filter-housing cap with the correct tool.
- Remove the old filter element.
- Replace every O-ring supplied with the new filter.
- Fit each O-ring into its specified groove, not over the cap threads.
- Lubricate the new O-ring with clean engine oil.
- Install the new element and cap.
- Tighten the cap to the specified torque.
An O-ring installed in the wrong groove can be cut during assembly or allow the housing to leak.
Rank #3
- Exclusive FILTECH media technology screens out and holds on to up to 14 grams of dirt and particles, preventing it from circulating throughout your engine and causing damaging wear that can lead to engine failure
- OE fit ensured through strong steel base plates and housings that prevent warpage, leaks, and poor fit
- Silicone anti-drain back valve ensures engine receives a supply of clean oil when the vehicle is started
- High lubricity gasket design provides a tight, leak proof seal, yet allows for easy removal when it's time for an oil change; Metal spiral-wound center tube reinforces internal strength for durability
- Compatible with select vehicles including, but not limited to, the following (Note: engine affects fitment - verify specific fitment details with fit checker above): ACURA: 13-22 ILX, 23-24 Integra, 01-23 MDX, 07-24 RDX, 05-12 RL, 14-20 RLX, 02-06 RSX
7. Reinstall and Tighten the Drain Plug
- Clean the drain-plug threads and the sealing surface on the oil pan.
- Install the specified new washer or gasket.
- Start the plug by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten it to the manufacturer’s torque specification.
Do not guess at the torque, especially with an aluminum oil pan. Over-tightening can strip the pan or distort its sealing surface; under-tightening can cause a leak. Thread sealant is not a substitute for the specified washer unless the manufacturer specifically calls for it.
8. Add the New Oil
- Verify that the drain plug and filter are installed.
- Place a funnel in the filler opening.
- Add slightly less than the specified total capacity.
- Wait briefly for the oil to drain into the pan.
- Install the filler cap.
- Start the engine and let it run for a short time.
- Switch the engine off.
- Wait for the period specified in the manual, commonly several minutes.
- Check the level on level ground and add oil in small amounts until it reaches the correct mark.
On a dipstick-equipped vehicle, remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and remove it again to read the level. Follow the manual if it specifies a different procedure.
Vehicles without dipsticks may require an electronic oil-level check under particular conditions, such as a specified engine temperature, parking position, or waiting period. Use the manufacturer’s procedure rather than guessing.
Do not overfill
Oil above the maximum mark can cause leaks, seal damage, or engine problems. Add oil gradually and verify the reading after each addition. Never pour the entire stated capacity in without checking the final level.
9. Check for Leaks and Warning Lights
With the engine off, inspect the areas around:
- The drain plug
- The oil filter or filter housing
- The oil pan
- The ground beneath the vehicle
A few drops left on a splash shield may appear after the service. Clean the area and recheck it. Any active leak must be corrected before driving.
After starting the engine, the oil-pressure warning light should go out promptly. If it remains illuminated, flashes, or the engine makes tapping or knocking noises:
Rank #4
- Exclusive FILTECH media technology screens out and holds on to up to 14 grams of dirt and particles, preventing it from circulating throughout your engine and causing damaging wear that can lead to engine failure
- OE fit ensured through strong steel base plates and housings that prevent warpage, leaks and poor fit
- Silicone anti-drain back valve ensures engine receives a supply of clean oil when the vehicle is started
- High lubricity gasket design provides a tight, leak proof seal, yet allows for easy removal when it's time for an oil change; Metal spiral-wound center tube reinforces internal strength for durability
- Compatible with select vehicles including, but not limited to, the following (Note: vehicle trim level/engine may affect fitment - verify specific vehicle fitment details with fit checker above): AUDI: 16-18 A3 Sportback e-tron; CHRYSLER: 00-02 Neon
- Turn the engine off immediately.
- Check the oil level.
- Look for a loose drain plug, loose filter, or major leak.
- Do not continue driving until the cause is identified.
A normal dipstick reading does not rule out an oil-pressure or lubrication-system fault.
Do these 3 things before closing this tab:
1Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problems2Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute3Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors10. Lower the Vehicle and Perform a Final Check
- Make sure no tools, rags, or containers remain underneath.
- Raise the vehicle slightly if necessary.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle carefully to the ground.
- Remove the wheel chocks when you are ready to move the car.
- Recheck the oil level on level ground using the manual’s procedure.
- Reinstall any undertray and all its fasteners.
Take a short drive, park on a level surface, and inspect the drain plug and filter again. Recheck the level after the engine has been off for the required waiting period.
11. Reset the Oil-Life Monitor
Reset the oil-life monitor only after replacing the oil and filter. The process varies by make, model, and model year. It may use the steering-wheel controls, instrument-cluster menus, infotainment screen, a dedicated button, or a scan tool.
Use the exact procedure in the owner’s manual. A reset does not change the service interval; it only tells the car that the scheduled service has been completed. Record the date, mileage, oil specification, and filter used for your maintenance records.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.12. Recycle the Used Oil
Pour the used oil into a clean, leakproof container with a secure screw-on lid. Do not use a container that held gasoline, solvents, bleach, paint, or food. Never mix used oil with antifreeze, brake fluid, fuel, water, or other chemicals.
Recommended Free Tools
Automotive stores, repair shops, transfer stations, and household-hazardous-waste programs may accept used motor oil, but quantity limits and filter policies vary. Confirm acceptance before making the trip. Ask whether the facility also accepts the drained oil filter.
Best Value
- ADVANCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE: Keep your engine clean for up to 15,000 miles thanks to high-density synthetic blend filter media; Expanded dirt-holding capacity captures over 99% of dirt; PurolatorONE gets the job done
- SYNTHETIC MEDIA: Made from high-density synthetic blend, these oil filters have long-lasting filtration capabilities, increasing time between oil changes and performance
- LEAK-PROOF SEAL: Thanks to the PTFE-Treated Gasket, you can rest easy knowing your engine is safe from leakage; It's heat resistant and flexible, and it's also easy to install and replace
- PROPER LUBRICATION: No dry starts—even after your vehicle has been sitting idle—thanks to the Silicone Anti-Drainback Valve; It keeps consistent oil flow and saves your engine from wear and tear during start-up, extending its lifespan
- DURABLE CONSTRUCTION: Wear-resistant metal end caps and the Double-Helix High-Flow Center Tube provide structural integrity to the filter so it can withstand harsher conditions; It's built to last, keeping your engine strong for the long run
Never pour used oil onto the ground, into a storm drain, or down a household drain. The EPA says one oil change’s worth of used oil can contaminate up to one million gallons of fresh water.
How Often Should You Change Your Oil?
The old universal “3,000 miles or three months” rule does not apply to every modern vehicle. Follow the interval specified for your engine, oil specification, driving conditions, and model year. If the car has an oil-life monitor, use it as directed rather than treating the monitor as a substitute for the manual’s maintenance schedule.
Short trips, frequent stop-and-go driving, towing, dusty environments, extreme temperatures, and other severe-service conditions may require more frequent changes. Check the manual’s severe-service schedule if your driving matches those conditions.
Free tools Windows power users keep installed
One-click scans. No signup required.
Oil color alone is not a reliable reason to change the oil. Synthetic oil also does not automatically authorize a longer interval in every vehicle; the manufacturer’s specification and schedule take priority.
Common Oil-Change Mistakes
| Mistake | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Choosing oil by viscosity alone | The engine may require a separate API, ILSAC, or manufacturer approval. |
| Using the wrong capacity | Different engines, and filter changes, can require different amounts. |
| Leaving the old filter gasket in place | A double gasket can cause a rapid, severe oil leak. |
| Reusing a single-use crush washer | The drain plug may not seal correctly. |
| Cross-threading the drain plug | Repairing damaged oil-pan threads can be expensive. |
| Over-tightening the plug or filter | Threads, housings, and sealing surfaces can be damaged. |
| Checking on a slope | The dipstick or electronic reading may be inaccurate. |
| Overfilling | Excess oil can cause leaks or engine damage. |
| Driving with the oil-pressure light on | The engine may be losing lubrication and can suffer rapid damage. |
| Leaving off the undertray | Exposed components can be hit by water, dirt, and road debris. |
FAQ
How long does a DIY oil change take?
Allow about 30 to 60 minutes if the car is familiar and the drain plug and filter are accessible. The first attempt may take longer, especially if you need to remove an undertray or safely raise the vehicle.
Should I change the oil when the engine is hot?
Warm the engine for a few minutes so the oil flows more easily, then switch it off and let hot components cool enough to handle safely. Do not work with fully hot oil or exhaust parts.
Can I use a different oil viscosity if the recommended grade is unavailable?
Do not choose a substitute based only on the first number or second number. Check the owner’s manual for approved alternatives and the required performance specification. If you cannot confirm compatibility, postpone the service or ask a qualified technician.
What should I do if the oil-pressure light stays on after the oil change?
Switch the engine off immediately. Check the oil level and inspect the drain plug, filter, and surrounding area for a major leak. If the light remains on or the engine makes unusual noises, do not drive until the problem has been diagnosed.
The Bottom Line
A DIY oil change comes down to four priorities: use the exact oil and filter specified for the engine, support the vehicle safely, prevent leaks by installing the filter and drain-plug seal correctly, and verify the final oil level. Reset the oil-life monitor afterward, record the service, and take the used oil and filter to an approved recycling or collection facility.
Quick Recap
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
