The Tool Desk
Outbyte PC Repair FREEClear out junk files and repair common Windows errorsFree Scan →Outbyte Driver Updater FREEScan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →If you want one classic shooting brake to use rather than simply display, begin with the Volvo 1800ES and Reliant Scimitar GTE. The Volvo is the more immediately recognizable design and has a distinctive glass tailgate; the Scimitar is roomier, covers more model years and has a stronger sporting-estate brief. Neither is automatically the better purchase: a rust-free, documented car with sound structure is worth more than a superficially cheaper project.
The Jensen GT is a much rarer alternative, while the Aston Martin DB5 Shooting Brake belongs in an ultra-rare collector category rather than the same practical shopping list. This guide explains what each car is, which faults matter, how to inspect one and how to choose according to your use, budget, market and access to specialist support.
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At a glance: which classic shooting brake fits your needs?
| Model | Production and period | Key design or mechanical points | Main buying risk | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Volvo 1800ES | 8,078 built for model years 1972–1973, according to Volvo Cars | 1,986 cc four-cylinder; manual with electrical overdrive or three-speed automatic; four-wheel hydraulic disc brakes; glass tailgate | Severe body corrosion and expensive structural repairs; early trim can be difficult to source | Buyers wanting a recognizable, usable classic with a strong parts ecosystem and a distinctive load area |
| Reliant Scimitar GTE | 14,273 built from 1968 to 1986, according to Classic & Sports Car | Ford V6, rear-wheel drive, steel tubular chassis and glassfibre body; many SE versions and model-year differences | Chassis corrosion, electrical faults, neglect and missing or hard-to-find parts | Drivers wanting more space, long-distance ability and a broader choice of specifications |
| Jensen GT | 511 built, according to Classic & Sports Car’s 2019 guide | Rare sporting estate with limited surviving-car availability | Rust and the difficulty of finding a good, complete example | Collectors who understand rarity and can wait for the right car |
| Aston Martin DB5 Shooting Brake | 12 built in period, according to Aston Martin | Coachbuilt DB5 estate conversion with exceptional rarity | Collector-level acquisition, maintenance and valuation complexity | Specialist collectors; not a direct alternative for an everyday classic estate |
Production totals describe how many cars were made, not how many remain usable or what any particular market will charge. Condition, originality, records, local supply and recent comparable transactions should determine your decision.
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What makes a classic shooting brake worth buying?
A shooting brake combines a coupé-like front and passenger compartment with an extended roof and a useful rear load area. In these cars, practicality is part of the appeal, but it also creates extra inspection points: tailgates, hinges, seals, rear floors, interior trim and the structure supporting the longer roof can all add cost.
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Assess candidates on seven separate axes rather than choosing by badge alone:
- Structural condition: the chassis, sills, floors, suspension pick-up points and repairs matter more than shiny paint.
- Body and weather sealing: inspect corrosion, previous accident repairs, tailgate alignment and water ingress.
- Exact version: model-year and SE changes mean that two cars with the same name may not share the same equipment or parts.
- Originality and provenance: factory specification, invoices, photographs and a continuous ownership history reduce uncertainty.
- Completeness: missing trim, glass, brightwork and interior pieces can be harder to replace than mechanical components.
- Usability: consider passenger space, luggage access, towing needs, cruising distances and where the car will be stored.
- Local support: a nearby marque specialist can make diagnosis and parts sourcing far easier than a general workshop unfamiliar with the car.
Volvo 1800ES: the easiest design to recognize
What the 1800ES is
Volvo describes the 1800ES as a sport-wagon development of the P1800. It introduced the model in autumn 1971 and built it for the 1972 and 1973 model years, with 8,078 produced. The ES uses a flatter, longer roofline and a large glass tailgate, giving the coupé a much more practical rear compartment. Volvo says the extra luggage capacity was intended for items such as golfing or hunting equipment.
The official Volvo specification lists a 1,986 cc four-cylinder engine, a manual gearbox with electrical overdrive or a three-speed automatic transmission, and hydraulic disc brakes on all four wheels. Equipment and calibration can vary by market, and cars may have been modified during their lives, so verify the individual car’s original configuration rather than assuming every 1800ES is identical.
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- Distinctive shape: the long roof and all-glass tailgate make it immediately identifiable without sacrificing the P1800’s sporting profile.
- Useful carrying capacity: the rear opening is genuinely more practical than a conventional coupé boot.
- Mechanical familiarity: the B18/B20 family has a strong durability reputation, and parts support for the 1800 range is generally good.
- Simple specification choices: an original manual, overdrive-equipped car and an automatic each offer a clear ownership character.
The body is the economic decision
Hagerty’s 1800ES buying guidance identifies the body as the main financial risk. The car can rust badly, and an apparently attractive example may conceal corrosion in structural or inaccessible areas. Mechanical work on a sound shell is usually easier to budget than rebuilding a rotten body.
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Paying more for a structurally sound car can therefore be cheaper than buying a low-priced project. Treat paint quality as evidence to investigate, not proof of condition: a fresh finish may cover old repairs, filler or corrosion that has returned.
How to inspect an 1800ES
- Raise the car safely and inspect the underside. Look at floors, sills, jacking points, suspension mounting areas and any welded repairs. Ask whether repairs were documented and photographed before paint was applied.
- Check the tailgate and rear structure. Confirm that the glass tailgate opens, closes and latches evenly. Inspect the surrounding metal, hinges, seals and load-floor edges for rust or water damage.
- Examine the exterior in consistent light. Look for bubbles at seams, mismatched panels, ripples, overspray and uneven shut lines that may indicate corrosion or accident repair.
- Verify mechanical specification. Confirm whether the car has the manual, electrical overdrive or automatic configuration described by the seller, and test the overdrive or automatic operation at operating temperature.
- Check braking and steering systems. The four-wheel hydraulic discs should operate without pulling, vibration or a soft pedal. A specialist should assess pipes, calipers, hoses and master-cylinder condition.
- Audit trim and glass. Hagerty notes that early trim is an exception to otherwise good parts support. Missing brightwork, interior pieces or correct fittings may be expensive or time-consuming to replace.
A specialist inspection should include the structure, previous repairs, underside, driveline, electrics and trim before you negotiate. A car with a less polished presentation but a documented, solid shell is usually a safer starting point than a cosmetically impressive example with unknown metalwork.
Reliant Scimitar GTE: the practical sporting estate
Construction, production and variants
Classic & Sports Car’s 2019 buyer’s guide describes the Scimitar GTE as a sporting estate built from 1968 to 1986. It uses a steel tubular chassis beneath a glassfibre body, Ford V6 power and rear-wheel drive. The guide reports 14,273 GTEs built and covers several SE versions, so the model year and exact variant are essential facts when comparing cars.
The glassfibre body does not corrode like a steel panel, but that should not lead you to treat a Scimitar as rust-proof. The steel chassis remains the primary structural concern. A cracked or poorly repaired body can also be costly, and glassfibre repairs vary greatly in quality.
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What makes the GTE appealing
- More model-year choice: the 1968–1986 production run gives buyers a wider range of specifications and prices to search, provided they understand the differences between SE variants.
- Load-carrying ability: the long roof and rear opening make it a convincing alternative to a saloon or coupé for touring and hobby use.
- Sporting character: Ford V6 power and rear-wheel drive give the GTE a different feel from the Volvo’s four-cylinder grand-touring approach.
- Body/chassis separation: a sound glassfibre body can look presentable even when the hidden steel chassis needs major attention, making an underside inspection non-negotiable.
Dave Poole, a Scimitar owner and enthusiast quoted by Malcolm McKay in Classic & Sports Car, described his 1969 SE5 this way: “I bought my ’69 SE5 12 years ago: 12 fun years.” He also said, “Scimitars are so underrated: what other classic can tow a caravan, go to track days or drag strips, drive like a sports car and cruise over long distances?” Those are personal owner observations, not controlled reliability or performance testing, but they explain the model’s broad appeal.
The chassis and electrics decide whether a bargain is real
The same guide warns about electrical faults, neglected examples, chassis corrosion and parts that can be difficult to find. A clean glassfibre body can hide a structurally compromised frame; conversely, a car with cosmetic blemishes may be a better purchase if its chassis, systems and documentation are strong.
Do not price a Scimitar by body appearance alone. Budget for investigation of the complete steel frame, suspension mounts, brake and fuel systems, wiring quality and the availability of variant-specific trim. A previous owner’s improvised electrical work can create intermittent faults that consume more time than a straightforward mechanical repair.
Scimitar inspection procedure
- Identify the exact SE version and year. Record the chassis number, engine, gearbox and any factory or period equipment. Use that information when checking parts and technical advice.
- Inspect the entire steel chassis. Concentrate on outriggers, suspension pick-up points, crossmembers, outriggers beneath the body, rear structure and areas where dirt or moisture collects. Probe suspicious scale and inspect weld quality.
- Separate body condition from frame condition. Check glassfibre for cracks, distortion, poor joins, stress marks and badly matched repairs, then inspect the metal structure independently.
- Test every electrical function. Operate lighting, instruments, switches, heater, wipers, indicators and accessories repeatedly. Look for non-standard wiring, unfused additions, overheated connectors and evidence of water entry.
- Check the Ford V6 and driveline. Look for leaks, cooling-system problems, poor starting, smoke, vibration and clutch or gearbox issues. Confirm that maintenance records match the installed engine and transmission.
- Inspect the load area and seals. Lift carpets and panels to find dampness, corrosion in the floor structure and repairs around the tailgate. Check the hinges, latch and weather seals.
- Ask for specialist review. A marque specialist is more likely to recognize a weak chassis repair, an incorrect variant part or an electrical modification that a general inspection could miss.
Jensen GT: a rare alternative, not a default recommendation
Classic & Sports Car’s 2019 Scimitar guide lists the Jensen GT as an alternative and reports that 511 were built. That production total makes the Jensen much rarer than either the 1800ES or Scimitar GTE, but rarity does not remove the need for structural inspection. The guide warns that the model rusts.
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Because the figure and comparison come from a 2019 guide, use them as historical context rather than a current market ranking. Availability, surviving-car condition and local specialist knowledge will vary. Consider a Jensen GT only if you are prepared to wait for a complete car and to verify that replacement trim, body and mechanical support are realistically available where you live.
Aston Martin DB5 Shooting Brake: the collector outlier
Aston Martin’s model history records 12 DB5 Shooting Brakes built in period. That scarcity places the car in a different acquisition and ownership category from the Volvo, Scimitar and Jensen. It is best treated as a coachbuilt collector object whose provenance, authenticity and specialist care dominate the decision.
The DB5 variant is useful in this comparison because it shows how broad the term “classic shooting brake” can be. Its rarity makes it a poor substitute for someone seeking an enjoyable, usable estate with accessible running support. It belongs in a separate collector discussion rather than a practical shortlist.
How to choose between the Volvo and Scimitar
Choose the Volvo 1800ES when
- You want the most immediately recognizable design and the visual drama of a glass tailgate.
- You prefer a shorter, clearly defined 1972–1973 production window.
- You value generally good 1800-series parts support and a durable mechanical reputation.
- You can find a car with documented body repairs or, ideally, an original rust-free structure.
Choose the Scimitar GTE when
- You need more of a sporting-estate proposition for touring, equipment or occasional towing.
- You want a wider range of model years and SE variants to search.
- You are comfortable having the steel chassis inspected independently of the glassfibre body.
- You have access to a specialist who understands the wiring, chassis and variant-specific parts.
Walk away from either model when
- The seller will not allow an underside inspection or an independent specialist examination.
- Structural repairs are undocumented, covered in fresh underseal or described only as “solid enough.”
- Critical trim, glass or interior components are missing and no realistic source has been identified.
- The price assumes a fully restored car while the records show long-term neglect.
- The car’s exact version, chassis identity or engine and gearbox specification cannot be verified.
A disciplined buying process
- Define the job the car must do. Decide whether it is for weekend drives, long-distance touring, carrying equipment, occasional towing, shows or collection. This determines whether practicality or originality should carry more weight.
- Set a total ownership budget. Include inspection, transport, initial servicing, tyres, brakes, fluids, electrical repairs, storage and insurance. Do not spend the entire budget on the purchase price.
- Shortlist by condition, not advertised rarity. Compare several cars using the same checklist. A less fashionable colour or imperfect cosmetics may be acceptable; structural weakness is not.
- Request evidence before travelling. Ask for chassis or body photographs, underside images, recent invoices, identity documents, cold-start video and a list of non-original parts.
- Arrange an independent inspection. Use a specialist familiar with the exact model and variant. The inspection should cover structure, drivetrain, brakes, steering, electrics, weather sealing, trim and road behaviour.
- Price the work in writing. Separate urgent safety repairs from cosmetic improvements and long-term upgrades. Obtain parts availability and labour estimates for every major defect.
- Compare the asking price with local evidence. Historical guide prices are not current valuations. The Scimitar prices printed in Classic & Sports Car’s 2019 guide are specifically dated and should not be repeated as present-day market values. Hagerty valuation pages can change, so check the relevant market and date when assessing an offer.
- Make the purchase conditional on identity and inspection. Confirm title, chassis number, import status where relevant, matching documentation and any outstanding legal or registration requirements before payment.
Ownership planning after purchase
Arrange baseline servicing even when the seller claims the car is ready to drive. Establish fluid, belt, hose, brake, tyre and battery condition; document the electrical system; and photograph the underside before cleaning or applying protective coatings. On a Scimitar, preserve clear access to the steel chassis for future inspections. On an 1800ES, keep records of corrosion treatment and body repairs so later buyers can distinguish sound work from cosmetic concealment.
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Parts support is not uniform. The 1800 range is generally well supported, but early trim can be an exception. Scimitar parts availability depends heavily on the exact SE version, and the buyer’s guide notes that some items are difficult to find. Before buying a car with missing pieces, identify a credible source or fabrication route rather than assuming a specialist will have everything on the shelf.
Local expertise can be more valuable than a low purchase price. A workshop that knows the model can recognize a dangerous chassis repair, an incorrect component or a recurring electrical fault quickly. If no specialist is nearby, budget for transporting the car to one and for longer diagnostic times.
Verdict: buy the best structure you can find
For most enthusiasts, the Volvo 1800ES is the clearest first search: its design is iconic, its luggage concept is genuinely useful and its mechanical specification is straightforward. The recommendation is conditional on finding a sound body. Serious corrosion can erase the apparent advantage of a cheaper example.
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A free scan shows the junk files, broken settings and background clutter dragging Windows down - then fixes them in one click.Free scan · Windows 10 & 11The Reliant Scimitar GTE is the stronger choice when carrying ability, model-year choice and long-distance sporting character matter more than visual familiarity. Its steel chassis, electrics and completeness must be checked with equal seriousness; a good glassfibre body is not evidence of a good car.
The Jensen GT is a specialist rarity with rust concerns, and the DB5 Shooting Brake is an ultra-rare collector piece. Neither should distract a practical buyer from the central rule: choose the structurally sound, documented and complete car that your local specialists can support, regardless of which badge appears on the nose.
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