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classic car suspension12 MIN

How to Improve a Ford Model A’s Ground Clearance and Traction Without Damaging Its Original Character

Measure and restore your 1928–1931 Ford Model A before modifying it. Learn how springs, shocks, tires, later wire wheels and drum compatibility affect clearance, traction, safety and originality.

By CarCody Team

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The safest way to gain usable clearance and traction on a 1928–1931 Ford Model A is to measure the car, restore its original suspension and wheels to specification, and then make only reversible tire or wheel changes. Ford’s published reference road clearance is 9.5 inches, but a particular car can sit lower because of sagged transverse springs, worn shackles, incorrect tire pressure, bent frame parts, or nonstandard components. Correct those faults before trying to make the car taller.

The Model A’s transverse-leaf suspension, four-wheel hydraulic shock absorbers and tall, narrow period profile are central to its character. A well-maintained, in-spec Model A is considered suitable for road use without suspension conversion. Bigger tires or later Ford wire wheels can add cushioning and sometimes improve grip, but only after drum, wheel, support, seating, fender and steering-clearance checks. Cutting springs, narrowing the frame or installing a modern suspension for a small clearance gain is the least reversible—and usually the least preservation-friendly—approach.

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Decide what you are trying to improve

“More clearance” and “more traction” are related but not identical goals. Clearance is the distance between the lowest vulnerable part of the car and the road. Traction depends on the tire’s tread, casing, load capacity, inflation pressure, the road surface, axle loading and the condition of the suspension. A tire can provide better wet-road grip without raising the chassis, while a larger-diameter tire can raise the axle and body slightly but still perform poorly if its compound, tread or pressure is wrong.

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Set a specific objective before changing anything:

  • Recover lost ride height: return the car to its correct spring arch, shackle position, tire pressure and frame alignment.
  • Clear a driveway or road crown: consider a modest, bolt-on tire change only after measuring fender and steering clearance.
  • Improve grip: select a sound, correctly rated tire and tune pressure by inspection and safe road testing rather than assuming a larger tire is automatically better.
  • Preserve judging originality: keep the factory wheel-and-tire set, use documented period-style alternatives, and avoid cutting or welding.

The Ford Model A Restorers Club specification page gives 9.5 inches as the general road-clearance reference. The club cautions that its specifications do not represent every design change, so treat that number as a comparison point—not a guarantee for every body style, load or repair history.

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Establish a repeatable baseline before changing parts

Measure the car on level ground with normal equipment installed and record the conditions. A baseline prevents you from mistaking a worn component for a design limitation and gives you a way to verify whether a reversible change helped.

  1. Set the car on a level surface. Remove unusual cargo, place the normal spare and tools in their usual locations, and bring all tires to the pressure you currently use. Note the pressure and tire brand, size and load information.
  2. Measure several points. Use a ruler or tape from the ground to the lowest practical points at the front axle, rear axle, frame rails and any exhaust or underbody part that is close to the road. Measure at the same points on both sides and write down the results.
  3. Record ride height and attitude. Photograph the car from the side and front. A nose-down stance, one low corner or a visibly flattened spring arch is more useful evidence than a single clearance number.
  4. Inspect the tires. Look for uneven shoulder wear, sidewall damage, aging, mismatched casings and a tread pattern unsuitable for the roads you use. Confirm that the tire is carrying the axle load with an appropriate margin.
  5. Inspect the transverse springs. Look for a flattened or reversed arch, cracked or missing leaves, broken clips, rust between leaves and evidence that a previous owner heated, cut or re-arched the spring.
  6. Check shackles, bushings and axle location. Worn shackles or bushings can let the axle move, alter steering behavior and reduce clearance even when the spring itself looks acceptable. Verify that the axle is centered and that the shackles are not at an abnormal angle.
  7. Check the frame. Measure diagonals if you have the equipment and inspect for kinks, crushed rails, poorly repaired welds or body mounts that have settled. A bent ladder frame can make one side low and can create apparent wheel or spring problems.
  8. Inspect the shock absorbers. The original car uses four-wheel hydraulic shocks; many cars have Houdaille-style lever units. Check for leaks, loose mounts, seized arms and a lack of damping. A shock absorber does not set static ride height, but a failed unit allows excessive movement that can make a tire or underbody strike the road.

Compare your measurements with the published reference only after the inspection. A loaded touring car, a different body style, replacement wheels or a nonstandard engine can all produce a different result without indicating a fault.

Use the symptoms to identify the cause

Symptom Likely areas to inspect Preservation-first response
Both ends sit low Spring arch, tire pressure, incorrect replacement parts, excessive load Verify pressure and parts; have the transverse springs assessed and rebuilt with correct components.
One corner is low Broken or fatigued leaf, shackle or bushing wear, frame or body-mount damage Repair the failed component and check frame alignment before considering any height change.
Clearance changes sharply over bumps Weak or leaking shocks, loose spring hardware, excessive axle movement Restore damping and tighten or replace worn hardware.
Steering feels vague after a wheel change Incorrect wheel offset, loose bearings, altered scrub geometry, tire interference Stop driving, verify wheel seating and bearings, and return to the known-good wheel set if necessary.
New tire rubs at full lock Tire section width or diameter, wheel offset, fender or tie-rod clearance Check both directions of lock and full suspension compression; use a narrower or correctly offset combination.

Restore the stock suspension before adding height

The transverse leaf springs are not merely a convenient way to support the car; they are part of the Model A’s engineering identity. Ford introduced the Model A as a lower, sleeker successor to the Model T, with a four-cylinder engine, hydraulic shocks and a claimed capability of roughly 55–65 mph. Preserving the original spring geometry keeps the steering, axle location, body alignment and ride behavior in the relationship intended for the chassis.

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Repair sagged or damaged springs

Have a specialist inspect spring leaves for fatigue, cracks and incorrect heat treatment. Replace broken leaves and damaged clips with correct parts, and use a properly rebuilt or replacement spring when the arch is no longer recoverable. Do not heat, torch, cut or cold-bend an original spring as a shortcut: an improvised change can alter rate and arch unevenly and can fail without warning.

When a spring is removed, inspect the spring perches, center bolt, U-bolts and axle pads. A loose center bolt or damaged perch can let the axle shift and can mimic a ride-height problem. Reassemble with the axle correctly located and hardware tightened to the specification for the parts actually fitted.

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Replace worn shackles and bushings

Shackles and bushings control how the spring eye moves as the suspension travels. Excessive play lets the axle wander, changes caster and can lower one side. Replace worn pieces with correct replacements rather than using a longer shackle to force extra height. A longer shackle changes geometry and can create a steering and tire-clearance problem.

Confirm the frame is straight

The Model A’s simple ladder frame can generally be straightened and repaired when it is bent. A frame shop familiar with early Ford chassis can measure the rails and cross-members before any body or suspension modification. Straightening a damaged frame restores clearance and alignment; narrowing or boxing the rails merely to accommodate a modern suspension changes the car’s structure and original character.

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Put the shocks back into service

Repair or replace leaking seals, loose mounts and seized lever arms in the original hydraulic shock absorbers where fitted. Correct damping keeps the tires in contact with uneven roads and limits bottoming, which is a practical traction and clearance benefit even though it does not increase static ride height. Verify that the shock arm moves through its intended travel without contacting the frame or spring.

Use tires as the least visually disruptive traction adjustment

A sound tire is the most reversible way to change road behavior. Choose a casing and tread that suit your roads, confirm the load rating, and inspect for age and damage. The available specialist guidance does not establish a universal tire size for every 1928–1931 body and wheel combination, so do not order by model year alone. Measure the actual car and verify the wheel, tire and fender relationship.

What a tire change can and cannot do

  • Diameter: a larger rolling diameter can raise the axle and underbody slightly, but the exact gain depends on the original and replacement dimensions. No controlled percentage gain is established for Model A applications.
  • Section width: a wider tire may increase the contact patch under some conditions but is more likely to contact a fender, tie rod or frame at full steering lock.
  • Casing and tread: construction and tread pattern affect cushioning, steering effort, wet grip and how the tire follows grooves.
  • Pressure: underinflation can create heat, sidewall damage and imprecise steering; overinflation reduces the compliant contact that helps on rough roads. Set a safe starting pressure from the tire maker and vehicle requirements, then inspect wear and handling.

Change one variable at a time. If you fit a different tire, keep the original wheels and tires labeled and stored. That makes the change reversible and gives you a known baseline if the new combination rubs, wanders or affects braking.

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Period-style wheel choices and their limits

Period owners used later Ford wire wheels and oversized tires to gain additional cushioning and alter the car’s stance. Specialist Model A guidance documents 18-, 17- and 16-inch later Ford wire-wheel diameters as examples of this practice. The diameter alone does not establish fitment or clearance; hub, drum, support and seating details determine whether the combination is safe.

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Wheel approach Original-character effect What must be verified Clearance or traction result
Correct Model A wheel and tire Closest to factory appearance and judging expectations Correct rim, spoke, drum, tire condition, pressure and bearing adjustment Restores intended baseline; additional gain is not quantified.
Later Ford wire wheel, 18-inch diameter Period accessory or later-Ford appearance rather than strict factory specification Hub and drum compatibility, wheel seating, supports, offset, fender and steering clearance May change cushioning and ride height; no universal gain is established.
Later Ford wire wheel, 17-inch diameter Period-style change that can remain visually sympathetic The same mechanical and clearance checks as any non-original wheel Result depends on the selected tire; no controlled traction figure is available.
Later Ford wire wheel, 16-inch diameter More visibly different from many stock combinations Drum, support, seating, offset and tire-to-body clearance May allow a different tire choice; do not assume it raises the car.

Retain the original set even if you prefer a period alternative. Reversible bolt-on changes protect the car’s future restoration options and allow you to return to the specification used for judging.

Brake drums and wheel seating are safety-critical

Early 1928 cars have unique drum and wheel details, so a wheel that appears to fit the bolt circle may still be unsafe. Later 1940–1948 Ford hydraulic drums use a 5-on-5.5-inch bolt pattern, but they do not have the supports built into Model A-era wire-wheel drums. Add-on supports may be required, and later Ford steel wheels may not seat correctly on early drums. Never treat a matching bolt pattern as proof of compatibility.

Perform the fit check before the car moves

  1. Remove the wheel and clean the hub, drum register and wheel seating surfaces. Look for burrs, cracks, distortion and packed rust.
  2. Confirm that the wheel is intended for the drum and that any required support ring or adapter is designed for that exact combination.
  3. Install the wheel by hand and verify that it sits flat against the correct register. Do not use the lug nuts to pull a mis-seated wheel into place.
  4. Check stud engagement, nut type, thread condition and torque procedure. The nut must clamp the wheel on its intended seat, not on an incompatible taper or a spacer edge.
  5. Rotate the wheel and inspect for runout. Turn the steering from lock to lock and check clearance to the tie rod, backing plate, spring, fender and frame.
  6. Raise and support the axle safely, cycle the suspension through available travel and repeat the clearance inspection. A static check at ride height is not enough.
  7. After a short, slow test, recheck torque, look for fresh contact marks and confirm that the brake pedal and steering feel unchanged.

If any part of the seating or support arrangement is uncertain, use the original wheel and drum combination until a Model A specialist can verify it. A cosmetic period look is not worth risking a loose wheel or compromised brake assembly.

Choose the least invasive option that solves the measured problem

Option Clearance potential Traction and ride effect Reversibility Originality and risk
Correct tire pressure and repair worn parts Recovers clearance lost to sag or underinflation Usually improves predictable handling and tire contact Fully reversible Best first step; low originality risk
Rebuild transverse springs, shackles and bushings Restores the designed ride height Restores axle control and suspension travel Reversible with correct parts Consistent with stock restoration
Fit a measured, period-style tire or wire wheel May add or remove a small amount depending on dimensions Can alter cushioning, steering effort and grip Reversible if originals are retained Requires detailed compatibility checks
Cut or re-arch original springs Unpredictable; can reduce travel or alter height unevenly Can compromise rate, steering geometry and ride Not readily reversible Damages original parts and increases safety risk
Modern suspension conversion or frame alteration Potentially large but dependent on fabrication Changes steering, driveshaft, brake and body relationships Expensive and difficult to reverse Conflicts with preservation and judging goals

For an originality-sensitive Model A, stop at the first option that solves the actual problem. If the frame or springs are damaged, repair them; do not use a conversion to conceal a fault.

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Protect the car’s original character while you work

MAFCA and the Ford Model A Restorers Club Restoration Guidelines & Judging Standards are the controlling references when authenticity matters. They are more useful than a generic hot-rod rule because they address the details that distinguish a correct restoration from a merely similar-looking car.

  • Photograph and record the original wheel, tire, drum and spring arrangement before disassembly.
  • Label removed parts by corner and axle position; do not discard original hardware until the replacement has been proven.
  • Keep changes bolt-on. Avoid cutting spring leaves, drilling frame rails, welding new brackets or permanently altering fenders.
  • Save receipts, part numbers, wheel measurements and tire specifications so a future owner can understand what changed.
  • Use the correct year-specific owner information. MAFCA publishes downloadable 1928 and 1931 owner manuals and documents at least 13 United States-built instruction-book versions covering 1928–1931.

Reprints of original manuals are sometimes listed through general booksellers. Search for Ford Model A owner's manual reproduction, then verify the year or version, seller and current listing before buying. The MAFCA store also lists restoration standards, instruction-book reproductions, troubleshooting and diagnostics material, mechanics handbooks and shop drawings.

Troubleshoot after the change

The car is still low after new tires

Check whether the new tire’s unloaded and loaded diameter is actually greater than the old tire’s. Then recheck spring arch, shackles, frame height and tire pressure. A tire cannot compensate for a collapsed spring or a bent frame.

Traction feels worse, not better

Inspect pressure, tread direction, tire age, mixed tire construction and axle loading. Verify that the tire is not rubbing and that the shocks keep the tire in contact with the road. There is no published controlled test that assigns a universal traction percentage to a particular Model A tire or wheel, so judge the result through careful, repeatable road checks rather than a claimed number.

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The steering wheel now pulls or returns differently

Stop and inspect wheel offset, tire size, bearing adjustment, shackle condition and axle centering. A wheel that changes scrub geometry or a shackle that is loose can affect steering even when the car appears to sit level.

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A wheel will not sit flat

Do not tighten it into place. Remove it, clean the mating surfaces and verify the drum, support and wheel-seat design. Early Model A drums and later Ford wheels are not automatically interchangeable simply because the bolt pattern appears to match.

The car bottoms on rough roads

Look for weak springs, seized or leaking shocks, loose spring hardware and an underbody component hanging below the frame. Restore travel and damping first. A larger tire may cushion an impact, but it should not be used to hide a suspension fault.

Set realistic expectations

The published 9.5-inch figure is a reference, not a promise that every restored or modified Model A will measure exactly that amount. Specialist sources describe a properly maintained, in-spec car as fine unchanged for road use and do not publish controlled tests quantifying the traction gain from a specific tire, wheel or spring modification. That means a responsible improvement plan can identify likely benefits—restored ride height, better damping, sound tire contact and safer wheel fitment—without claiming a universal number.

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Measure first, restore the transverse-leaf system and brakes, and use tires or period-style wheels only when the complete combination has been checked on the actual car. Keeping the original parts and avoiding irreversible fabrication gives you the best chance of gaining practical clearance and dependable traction without losing what makes a Model A recognizably a Model A.

Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

classic car suspensionFord Model Aground clearanceMAFCAModel A restorationtire fitmenttractionvintage Ford wheels

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