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On the comparable 2019 EPA test, the BMW i3 is fractionally more efficient: 298 Wh/mile combined versus 301 Wh/mile for the 40-kWh Nissan LEAF. That three-Wh/mile difference is too small to decide a used-car purchase by itself. Battery generation, condition, temperature, tires, speed and charging losses can have a larger effect on your real energy use.
The 2019 i3 also had a 153-mile EPA range from its 42.2-kWh battery, while the 40-kWh LEAF was rated at 150 miles. Nissan LEAF e+ versions with 62 kWh extend EPA range to roughly 215–226 miles, but their combined consumption rises to 312–324 Wh/mile. In practice, choose between these cars by weighing efficiency against range, battery health, charging compatibility, space and service support.
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2019 EPA efficiency: BMW i3 narrowly wins
The cleanest apples-to-apples comparison is the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s 2019 label data. Both cars are compact battery-electric hatchbacks, and the figures use the same EPA methodology for city, highway and combined driving.
| Vehicle | Battery size listed by EPA | EPA range | City consumption | Highway consumption | Combined consumption |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BMW i3 (2019) | 42.2 kWh | 153 miles | 272 Wh/mile | 330 Wh/mile | 298 Wh/mile (29.8 kWh/100 miles) |
| Nissan LEAF (2019, 40 kWh) | 40.0 kWh | 150 miles | 272 Wh/mile | 340 Wh/mile | 301 Wh/mile (30.1 kWh/100 miles) |
The i3’s 298 Wh/mile is about 1 percent lower than the LEAF’s 301 Wh/mile. Both cars show the same EPA city figure, so the difference comes from the LEAF’s higher highway consumption. At motorway speeds, aerodynamic drag dominates more of the energy budget, and the LEAF’s 340 Wh/mile highway rating is 10 Wh/mile above the i3’s 330 Wh/mile.
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EPA labels also express efficiency as MPGe. EPA defines MPGe as an energy-content metric that allows comparisons among different vehicle technologies and fuels; it is not a promise that every driver will reproduce the laboratory result. Wh/mile or kWh/100 miles is usually easier when estimating electricity use at home.
What the efficiency gap means for your electricity bill
A 3 Wh/mile gap sounds precise but is practically small. Over 10,000 miles, using the EPA combined figures, the i3 would consume about 2,980 kWh and the 40-kWh LEAF about 3,010 kWh before charging losses. The difference is approximately 30 kWh for that distance. Multiply each car’s calculated kWh by your household electricity rate to estimate the energy-cost difference; do not treat the EPA figure as the amount measured at your wall outlet.
Charging equipment and the car’s onboard charger consume some additional electricity, and charging in cold conditions can require energy for battery heating. Public fast-charging prices may be based on time, energy or a combination, so a lower Wh/mile rating does not automatically produce a lower public-charging bill.
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Why real-world results can reverse the order
- Temperature: Cold air reduces battery performance and increases heating demand; very hot weather can increase cooling energy.
- Speed: Sustained high speed raises aerodynamic drag sharply, making the EPA highway difference more relevant than the city number.
- Route and traffic: Hills, heavy loads, stop-and-go traffic and repeated short trips alter consumption.
- Tires: Incorrect pressure, worn tires or a high-rolling-resistance replacement can erase a few Wh/mile of laboratory advantage.
- Battery age: A degraded pack has less usable energy, and the car may consume more energy per mile if it must work harder to provide the same performance.
- Heating and air conditioning: Cabin climate control is a larger fraction of energy use on short journeys.
Range and battery generations
BMW i3 battery timeline
BMW says the i3 entered the market in 2013, received a 33.2-kWh battery for 2016, and moved to as much as 42.2 kWh in 2018. Production ran from 2013 through 2022. The 2019 EPA entry therefore represents the 42.2-kWh generation and its 153-mile rating, not every used i3.
Older i3 cars have smaller packs and generally less range when new. BMW’s published WLTP figures for the i3 family span 15.3–16.6 kWh/100 km combined consumption and 278–307 km of WLTP range. WLTP and EPA are different test cycles, so do not substitute the WLTP range for the U.S. EPA number when comparing cars in the United States.
Battery size is not the same as usable capacity. A portion of a pack is reserved for operating buffers, and the usable amount changes with software, temperature and battery condition. Treat the original range as a model-year reference, then judge the individual car by its present state of health.
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Nissan LEAF battery choices
The 2019 LEAF with a 40-kWh battery was EPA-rated at 150 miles and 301 Wh/mile combined. LEAF e+ models use a 62-kWh pack and provide more range, with EPA ratings in the 215–226-mile range depending on version. Their combined consumption is higher at approximately 312–324 Wh/mile, so the larger battery buys distance rather than greater efficiency.
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Which car is cheaper to run?
If two vehicles have similar battery health, tires and driving conditions, the 2019 EPA data imply nearly identical electricity use, with a slight edge to the i3. The LEAF e+ uses more energy per mile but may still be cheaper for a driver who would otherwise rely on expensive public charging because its larger battery reduces the number of charging stops.
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A practical cost calculation
- Find the car’s realistic consumption in kWh/100 miles. Start with the EPA combined value, then adjust your expectation for climate, speed and route.
- Divide by 100 and multiply by your planned annual mileage to estimate driving energy in kWh.
- Multiply that energy by your home electricity rate. Add a separate estimate for charging losses if you want a wall-to-wheels figure.
- For public charging, use the operator’s current price structure and your expected charging mix rather than the home-rate result.
- Add non-energy costs: insurance, tires, servicing, registration and any battery or charging-equipment repair.
The used car with the lowest Wh/mile is not necessarily the lowest-cost choice if it has a weak battery, needs tires or cannot use the charging equipment available at your home.
Battery degradation: what to verify before buying
Neither the i3 nor the LEAF’s original EPA range tells you how much energy a particular used battery can hold today. Age, mileage, climate, storage state, charging history and individual cell condition all matter. A 2014 car and a 2019 car should not be evaluated from the same range expectation simply because they share a badge.
Ask for state-of-health evidence
Request a battery state-of-health (SOH) reading or a battery-health report produced by a qualified technician. The report should identify the vehicle, battery capacity estimate, fault codes and the date of the measurement. A dashboard range estimate by itself is not a battery test: it is calculated from recent driving and can change after a reset or a change in driving style.
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Check for warning signs during a drive
- Unexpectedly rapid percentage drops under moderate load.
- Large changes in estimated range after a short trip.
- Battery or drivetrain warning lights.
- Power limitation when the battery is not nearly empty.
- Charging that stops unexpectedly or takes much longer than the seller describes.
- Evidence of water intrusion, crash repairs or exposed high-voltage components.
These symptoms do not prove a failed pack, but they justify a professional inspection before money changes hands. Ask whether any battery warranty remains and whether it transfers to the next owner under the vehicle’s original market terms.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Charging compatibility and home setup
Charging convenience can outweigh a tiny efficiency difference. Confirm which charging connector is fitted to the exact car, which cables are included and whether your home supply can support the intended charging method. Do not assume a cable shown in a listing is included at delivery.
Nissan states that its portable charge cable supports standard 120-volt or 240-volt outlets. That statement applies to the cited 2024 LEAF press information; an older used car may have a different cable, regional plug or equipment history. Inspect the label on the cable, its amperage rating and the plug that connects to your outlet.
Home-charging checklist
- Photograph the car’s charge inlet and the included cable before purchase.
- Identify the outlet type, circuit rating and voltage available where you park.
- Have an electrician verify that the circuit is suitable for continuous EV charging; do not use an extension cord as a permanent solution.
- Confirm that the cable’s connector and current rating match both the vehicle and the supply.
- Test a complete charging session before accepting the car, checking that the charge starts, continues and terminates normally.
A larger battery does not automatically charge faster. Charging time depends on the car’s onboard equipment, the supply, battery temperature, state of charge and the public charger’s output. Ask for a demonstrated charge session rather than relying on a generic model specification.
Used-buying inspection: i3 versus LEAF
| Inspection item | BMW i3 | Nissan LEAF |
|---|---|---|
| Battery generation | Confirm whether it is the earlier pack, the 33.2-kWh 2016 generation or the up-to-42.2-kWh generation introduced in 2018. | Confirm 40-kWh or 62-kWh e+ battery; the larger pack changes range and consumption. |
| Present capacity | Obtain SOH evidence and compare expected range with the car’s age and use. | Obtain SOH evidence; do not infer capacity from the dashboard range alone. |
| Charging equipment | Verify included cable, connector and home-outlet compatibility. | Verify included cable, connector and home-outlet compatibility; Nissan’s 120/240-volt portable-cable statement is model-year specific. |
| Tires and alignment | Inspect tread, pressure, uneven wear and replacement specifications. | Inspect tread, pressure, uneven wear and replacement specifications. |
| Service history | Check high-voltage warnings, recalls, crash repairs and cooling-system work. | Check high-voltage warnings, recalls, crash repairs and cooling-system work. |
| Practical fit | Assess rear-seat access, cargo volume and your normal passenger load. | Assess rear-seat access, cargo volume and your normal passenger load. |
How to choose by driving pattern
Choose the i3 when low energy use and urban maneuverability matter most
- Your trips are mainly urban or suburban and fit comfortably within the car’s current verified range.
- You value the marginally lower EPA consumption of the 2019 model.
- You find a well-documented example with healthy battery readings, good tires and complete charging equipment.
- You can accept the i3’s cabin and cargo limitations after a physical test fit.
Choose a 40-kWh LEAF when simplicity and familiar hatchback practicality fit better
- You want similar 2019 EPA efficiency and approximately 150 miles of original EPA range.
- The particular LEAF has stronger battery-health evidence or a better price than the i3 examples available locally.
- Your passengers, cargo or seating needs suit the LEAF better.
- Local technicians and parts access make the LEAF easier to maintain in your area.
Choose a LEAF e+ when range is the priority
- You regularly drive beyond the practical range of a 40-kWh car.
- You prefer 215–226 miles of EPA-rated range when new, accepting 312–324 Wh/mile combined consumption.
- You have checked the specific car’s battery health, because a larger original pack can still lose capacity with age.
- Your home and public-charging plan supports the vehicle’s connector and charging requirements.
Test-drive procedure for an efficient used EV
- Record the basics: write down model year, trim, battery size, odometer reading and the displayed state of charge.
- Inspect the pack information: obtain the SOH report or schedule an independent battery scan.
- Check the tires: measure pressures when cold and look for uneven wear that could increase rolling resistance.
- Reset nothing without documenting it: ask the seller how the range estimate was produced and whether it was recently reset.
- Drive a repeatable route: include low-speed streets and a short faster section, noting outside temperature, climate-control use and average speed.
- Compare energy use: use the trip computer’s consumption reading only as evidence from that drive, not as a guarantee of future range.
- Charge the car: confirm that the cable fits, charging begins reliably and no warning appears.
- Recheck after charging: verify that the state-of-charge increase matches the seller’s explanation and that the car remains free of warning messages.
When comparing two cars, perform the same route in similar weather and with similar climate-control settings. Otherwise, differences in traffic or temperature can look like a drivetrain-efficiency advantage.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Picking the winner from three Wh/mile: the i3’s EPA lead is too small to outweigh a healthier battery or better-priced LEAF.
- Comparing battery capacity with range alone: usable capacity, efficiency, software buffers and degradation all affect distance.
- Mixing test cycles: EPA, WLTP and newer model-year figures are not interchangeable.
- Assuming a 62-kWh LEAF is more efficient: it offers more range but its EPA consumption is higher than the 40-kWh LEAF’s.
- Trusting the range display: recent driving conditions can make the estimate optimistic or pessimistic.
- Ignoring charging hardware: a missing or incompatible cable can turn a cheap-to-run EV into an inconvenient one.
- Skipping a professional inspection: high-voltage faults and battery problems can cost far more than a pre-purchase check.
Bottom line for a used-car decision
The 2019 BMW i3 is the efficiency winner on the comparable EPA numbers, at 298 Wh/mile versus 301 Wh/mile for the 40-kWh Nissan LEAF. The margin is effectively a tie in everyday ownership. Buy the i3 if a specific car has verified battery health, suitable range, good tires and charging equipment, and its size works for you. Buy the 40-kWh LEAF when its condition, space or local service support is better. Select a 62-kWh LEAF e+ when additional range matters more than minimum energy use. In every case, identify the battery generation and inspect the individual vehicle rather than shopping by badge or original EPA range.
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