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For the same electric SUV and the same amount of driving, charging at home usually costs less for energy than using a public DC fast charger. Your actual cost depends on the SUV’s electricity use, your household’s rate, and the station’s current pricing. To compare them, multiply the vehicle’s energy use in kWh per 100 miles by the price per kWh, then divide by 100 to get cost per mile.
There is no single price that applies to every driver: utility rates, charging times, station fees, and vehicle efficiency all matter. The U.S. figures below are dated reference estimates, not current quotes. For a useful decision, use the exact SUV’s official efficiency figure, the home tariff that applies when you charge, and the posted price at the public station you expect to use.
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How to calculate an electric SUV’s charging cost
You need two figures: the SUV’s energy consumption in kilowatt-hours per 100 miles (kWh/100 miles) and the electricity price in dollars per kWh. The U.S. Department of Energy’s Alternative Fuels Data Center (AFDC) identifies these as the inputs for calculating EV cost per mile. In practical terms, the vehicle figure describes how much electricity it uses to travel a set distance, and the price figure describes what you pay for that electricity.
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|---|---|
| Home energy cost per 100 miles | Vehicle efficiency (kWh/100 miles) × home electricity rate ($/kWh) |
| Public fast-charging energy cost per 100 miles | Vehicle efficiency (kWh/100 miles) × charger’s effective energy price ($/kWh) |
| Cost per mile | Cost per 100 miles ÷ 100 |
For example, call the SUV’s official efficiency figure E kWh/100 miles. If your applicable home rate is H dollars per kWh, the home energy cost is E × H dollars per 100 miles. If the public charger’s effective energy price is F dollars per kWh, the public energy cost is E × F dollars per 100 miles. Divide either result by 100 to express it as a cost per mile. Using the same E in both calculations keeps the vehicle constant, so the difference reflects the electricity prices and billing terms rather than a change in SUV.
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- Safe & Durable: Rely on this UL-certified EV charger for safe home charging. It can be installed indoors or outdoors by an electrician and includes a cold-resistant cable.
- Fast & Powerful: This EV charger charges 9× faster than a 120V outlet, delivering up to 45 mi/hr., dependent upon your vehicle. It features a J1772 connector for all non-Tesla EVs and requires a 20A or 80A circuit. For Tesla EVs, this will require an adapter.
Use the efficiency figure for the exact SUV you own or are considering, not a generic EV average. The sources cited here do not establish an electric SUV model or a representative SUV efficiency value, so a model-specific result requires the vehicle’s official efficiency information. Use your actual utility tariff and the rate posted for the particular public charger you plan to use. If a vehicle has more than one official configuration, make sure the figure you select matches the model and configuration relevant to your decision.
Account for the charger’s billing method
A per-kWh price makes the comparison straightforward: multiply the vehicle’s kWh/100 miles by the applicable dollars-per-kWh rate. Public charging can also be billed per session, by time, or through a subscription. In those cases, calculate the effective price for the energy delivered, including applicable fees, or compare the complete cost of a realistic charging stop. A headline per-kWh rate may not reflect the total bill.
Keep the price basis visible when you compare. If a public site bills by time, the bill is not directly a per-kWh quote; calculate what the stop costs for the energy delivered if you have the information needed, or state that you are comparing the total stop cost instead. A session fee should not disappear from the calculation simply because another station displays an energy rate. Similarly, a subscription should be evaluated using its actual terms and local prices, rather than assuming the advertised rate alone represents the total cost.
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What U.S. reference figures can—and cannot—tell you
A DOE-hosted NREL report reproduces approximate U.S. charging-cost estimates attributed to the U.S. Energy Information Administration’s 2024 data and Clarke (2024). They are useful for illustrating the usual price gap, but they are dated reference figures, not verified 2026 tariffs or quotes for a particular location.
| Charging type | Approximate U.S. reference cost | How to interpret it |
|---|---|---|
| Residential electricity | $0.17/kWh | Approximate figure based on 2024-era source data; not a current rate for every household. |
| Public AC Level 2 | $0.20–$0.25/kWh | Approximate figure based on 2024-era source data; individual station prices vary. |
| Public DC fast charging | $0.40–$0.60/kWh | Approximate figure based on 2024-era source data; check the station’s posted price and fees. |
These ranges can help explain why home charging is often cheaper per unit of energy than public DC fast charging. They do not tell you what your bill will be: a local home tariff may differ from the residential reference, and an individual station can have its own rate structure and fees. The public AC Level 2 figures are also a separate category from public DC fast charging; do not treat them as interchangeable prices.
AFDC also provides illustrations using assumed prices and vehicle efficiency. One uses 12.3¢/kWh to show that adding 100 miles of range costs $2.46. Another uses 10.7¢/kWh and 27 kWh/100 miles to calculate approximately $0.03 per mile. The latter arithmetic corresponds to about $2.89 per 100 miles before rounding the per-mile figure. These are arithmetic examples, not current national household rates or electric SUV efficiency benchmarks. The 27 kWh/100-mile input is an illustration, not a figure to substitute for the efficiency of an SUV you are evaluating.
Use dated benchmarks as context, not as a shortcut around the two inputs in your own calculation. A rate in a report may be helpful for understanding broad differences among home, public AC Level 2, and public DC fast charging, but it cannot establish a current local tariff. The cited sources do not identify a state, utility, SUV model, or charging network for this comparison, and do not establish newer nationwide averages.
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Most EV drivers charge at home, often overnight, using Level 1 or Level 2 AC equipment. The energy price is generally tied to the household electricity tariff, which may be lower than public DC fast-charging rates. Some utilities offer time-of-use rates or other EV incentives, so the cost can depend on when the vehicle charges as well as how much energy it uses.
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- Vast Network: Wherever you go, ChargePoint’s network includes 274k+ stations across North America and Europe and 565k+ roaming partner stations
- Safe & Durable: Rely on this UL-certified EV charger for safe home charging. It can be installed indoors or outdoors by an electrician and includes a cold-resistant cable
- Fast & Powerful: This EV charger charges 9× faster than a 120V outlet, delivering up to 45 mi/hr., dependent upon your vehicle. It features a J1772 connector for all non-Tesla EVs and plugs into a 240V outlet with a 14-50 receptacle, requiring a 40A or 50A circuit. For Tesla EVs, this will require an adapter
For a useful estimate, check your electricity bill or utility account for the applicable rate, including any time-of-use periods and relevant fees. If you charge overnight on a lower-priced period, use that rate rather than a general household average. If your tariff changes by time of day, account for the hours when the SUV will actually charge. Do not assume that an overnight rate is discounted: confirm whether your utility has a time-of-use plan and what its current terms say.
A utility’s EV-specific plan or incentive is local and term-dependent. If one is available, compare the actual rate and conditions with your existing tariff. The existence of time-of-use pricing in some areas does not mean every household has access to it, or that the same schedule applies everywhere. For publication or a personal estimate, identify the utility and current plan rather than presenting an incentive as universal.
Home access and charging equipment
Level 1 charging uses standard household AC equipment and is typically slower. Level 2 generally requires a 240-volt outlet or suitable electrical service. Whether a home can support Level 2—and whether new wiring, permitting, labor, or electrical upgrades are needed—depends on the property.
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1Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitches2Clear out junk files and repair common Windows errors3Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteRenters and residents of multifamily housing may not control installation or have a dedicated place to charge. In those cases, public or workplace charging may make up a larger share of the routine, even if its per-kWh price is higher. A home-rate calculation describes the cost only when home charging is available and the vehicle can use it. Access is therefore part of the comparison: the lowest theoretical rate does not help if a driver cannot charge at home.
Home charging costs also have two different time horizons. The electricity rate is an ongoing energy cost, while a charger, installation, permitting, labor, or electrical upgrade is generally an upfront setup consideration. Compare ongoing energy costs separately from one-time work so that a per-mile figure does not imply it includes equipment or installation. No single installation price fits every property.
Why public fast charging costs more—and when it is useful
Public charging includes AC Level 2 and DC fast charging. DC fast charging is designed for quicker charging stops, such as during longer trips, but drivers can generally expect to pay more at public stations—especially DC fast chargers—than for home electricity. The station’s specific billing model and fees still matter, so check its posted price before charging.
Public charging can extend an EV’s useful daily range and reduce the amount of gasoline consumed by plug-in hybrid vehicles, as AFDC notes. For an electric SUV, its practical value is access and charging speed when home or workplace charging is unavailable or when a trip calls for a faster stop—not necessarily the lowest energy cost. A public station can be relevant even when it is not the cheapest option: convenience, location, and the need to charge during a journey are different considerations from the per-kWh comparison.
When comparing options, be clear about the charging level. Public AC Level 2 is not DC fast charging, and the dated reference figures show different approximate costs for those categories. The title comparison is specifically home charging versus public fast charging; a Level 2 public station may still be useful, but it should not be presented as though it were a DC fast charger or priced by the same benchmark.
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- PLUG IN, NO HARDWIRING: Level 2 charger delivers up to 40A to fully charge most EVs overnight. Plugs into a 240V, 4-prong NEMA 14-50 outlet (the RV/range type - NOT a dryer outlet) on a dedicated 50A circuit. The extra-long 25 ft cable easily reaches across a garage or driveway. Before ordering, check your car's port type and that you have the right outlet.
- CONTROL & SAVE FROM YOUR PHONE: A stronger built-in antenna keeps the charger online even in a garage or basement. Use the free app to start/stop charging, set speed (6-40A), get reminders, and track energy use and cost. Schedule off-peak overnight charging to cut your electric bill. Requires 2.4 GHz WiFi.
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- GLOW-IN-THE-DARK HOLSTER: The included high-visibility holster glows in the dark so you can find and dock the plug easily at night. Holds the connector securely when not in use.
Compare the actual cost of a stop
- Confirm whether the displayed rate is per kWh, per session, by time, or subscription-based.
- Include relevant session or other fees in the amount you compare.
- If you have a charging-network subscription, compare its actual terms and local rates with pay-as-you-go pricing.
- Use the price at the specific station rather than assuming all chargers in a network or region charge the same amount.
- When the price is not per kWh, distinguish the total cost of the stop from an energy-only cost per 100 miles. Do not label unlike price bases as directly equivalent.
For a fair comparison, look at the price the driver would actually pay, not just the most prominent number on a display or in a plan description. Public pricing may combine an energy rate with a session fee, a time-based charge, or subscription terms. Current local prices, fee schedules, and subscriptions vary by network and station, so check those details at the station or provider before relying on them.
Keep home setup costs separate from energy costs
A per-mile comparison measures the ongoing cost of electricity; it does not include the one-time cost of installing home charging equipment. A residential Level 2 setup may involve the unit, installation, permitting, labor, wiring, and possible electrical-service upgrades. Those expenses depend on the home and installation, so they should be considered separately from the cost of energy.
Not every household needs to buy a new Level 2 unit. Before arranging equipment or installation, confirm that the charger is compatible with the vehicle, that the home’s electrical service can support it, and what work or permits the installation requires. The DOE AFDC’s infrastructure guidance discusses indicative hardware and installation costs while emphasizing that site conditions and installation needs affect the total. No single total applies to every home.
A residential Level 2 charger is a relevant equipment option for some households, but it is not an automatic purchase recommendation. Existing equipment or charging access may already meet a driver’s needs, while another home may require electrical work before a unit can be installed. Check the vehicle connector compatibility, charger power, electrical service, and installation requirements before choosing hardware. Any product-specific recommendation would also need current compatibility and installation information.
When you evaluate the upfront expense, keep it distinct from the rate comparison. A household might calculate a lower energy cost at home but still need to consider whether equipment and installation are feasible and what they would cost. Conversely, a per-kWh comparison alone should not be used to claim that buying or installing a charger pays for itself; that would require household-specific setup costs and actual charging use, which are not established by the available figures.
A practical comparison for your SUV
- Find the vehicle’s official efficiency. Record its energy consumption in kWh per 100 miles. Use the figure for the exact model and configuration you are comparing. Do not substitute the AFDC illustration’s 27 kWh/100 miles for an actual SUV unless that is the official figure for that vehicle.
- Find your home rate. Check the utility tariff that applies when you expect to charge, including any time-of-use pricing or EV-specific terms. If rates vary by time, use the relevant period rather than treating one assumed rate as valid for every charging hour.
- Check a public DC fast charger. Look up the station’s posted price and identify whether it bills per kWh, by time, per session, or through a subscription. Include the relevant fees and verify the terms for the station you would use.
- Calculate energy cost per 100 miles. Multiply the SUV’s kWh/100 miles by each applicable per-kWh rate. For non-energy-based billing, work out the effective cost for the energy you expect to receive and include fees. If you cannot reasonably convert a time- or session-based bill into an energy cost, compare the complete stop cost and label it accordingly.
- Divide by 100 for cost per mile. Compare like with like: energy cost against energy cost, with any setup expense or subscription treated separately and explicitly. Do not mix one-time installation costs into one option’s per-mile energy figure without explaining the method.
- Check the context of any benchmark. The U.S. figures in this article are approximate references based on 2024-era source data. Use them to understand the broad categories, not as a substitute for local prices in 2026.
This comparison gives you a vehicle- and location-specific answer without treating an old national estimate as today’s price. Your driving pattern and access to charging determine how much each option contributes to your real monthly bill. If you want a monthly estimate, apply the same per-mile method to the distance you expect to drive and the share of charging you expect to do at each rate; do not assume a charging mix that does not match your routine.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What the comparison means for drivers
Home charging is usually the lower-cost source of energy when a driver has access to it and can use a favorable household rate. Public DC fast charging buys convenience and speed, and its cost varies with the station’s rate and billing terms. For the most accurate comparison, use your SUV’s official kWh/100-mile figure, the home tariff that applies to your charging hours, and the current price and fees at the public station you would use. The figures above are U.S.-focused; they do not establish local rates for a particular state, utility, charging network, or vehicle.
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Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitchesFind Drivers →Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →The answer to “How much does it cost to charge an electric SUV at home versus at a public fast charger?” is therefore a calculation, not a universal dollar amount. Use the same vehicle efficiency in both cases, check the actual home and station prices, and keep energy, subscription, and installation costs separate. If your situation includes no home charging access, a time-of-use plan, or a subscription, those facts can change which option is practical and what the effective price is.
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- HARDWIRED - PROFESSIONAL INSTALL: This Level 2 charger is hardwired (not plug-in), so a licensed electrician installs it per National Electrical Code. It delivers up to 48A on a dedicated 60A, 240V circuit - enough to charge most EVs fully overnight. Want more speed? You can set DIP switches 4 and 5 to unlock 50A on a dedicated 70A circuit. Before ordering, check your car's port type and that your electrical panel can support the circuit.
- CONTROL FROM YOUR PHONE: A stronger built-in antenna keeps the charger online even in a garage or basement. Use the free app to start and stop charging, set the charging speed (6-48A), get reminders, and track how much energy and money each charge uses. Requires a 2.4 GHz home WiFi network.
- SAFETY-CERTIFIED & WEATHERPROOF: Independently tested and certified (UL, ETL, FCC, Energy Star). A fully sealed IP66 / NEMA 4 housing stands up to rain, snow, heat and dust indoors or out, and internal steel shielding protects the electronics for years of reliable use.
- GLOW-IN-THE-DARK HOLSTER: The included high-visibility holster glows in the dark so you can find and dock the plug easily at night. Holds the connector securely when not in use.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I calculate the cost to charge my electric SUV at home?
Find the SUV’s official energy use in kWh per 100 miles and multiply it by the home electricity rate in dollars per kWh. That gives the energy cost per 100 miles; divide by 100 for cost per mile. Use the tariff that applies during your charging hours, including time-of-use terms if relevant.
Is charging an electric SUV at home cheaper than using a public fast charger?
Home charging usually costs less per kWh than public DC fast charging, but your result depends on your local home tariff, the station’s posted rate, fees, and the SUV’s efficiency. Compare the same vehicle efficiency against each actual price rather than relying on a national average.
What are the U.S. average charging prices?
A DOE-hosted NREL report reproduces approximate U.S. reference estimates based on 2024-era data: $0.17/kWh for residential electricity, $0.20–$0.25/kWh for public AC Level 2, and $0.40–$0.60/kWh for public DC fast charging. They are dated context, not verified 2026 prices or quotes for a particular location.
Do public fast chargers always charge by the kilowatt-hour?
No. Public charging can be billed per kWh, per session, by time, or through a subscription. Check the specific station’s pricing and fees. For a fair energy comparison, calculate an effective cost for the energy delivered when possible; otherwise compare and label the total cost of a charging stop.
Do I need to install a Level 2 charger at home?
Not necessarily. Home charging may use Level 1 or Level 2 equipment, and some households already have suitable equipment or access. Level 2 generally requires a 240-volt outlet or appropriate electrical service. Confirm vehicle compatibility, electrical capacity, installation needs, and any permitting before buying equipment.
What if I rent or live in an apartment?
You may not control installation or have access to a dedicated charging space. Public or workplace charging may then make up more of your routine, even if its per-kWh price is higher. The home-rate calculation applies only when home charging is actually available to you.
Do home charger installation costs belong in the per-mile comparison?
Keep them separate from ongoing electricity costs. A residential Level 2 setup may involve hardware, labor, wiring, permitting, or electrical upgrades, and the total depends on the property. A per-mile energy calculation does not include those one-time expenses.
Can I use the article’s 27 kWh/100-mile example for my SUV?
Only if that is the official efficiency figure for your exact SUV configuration. AFDC uses 27 kWh/100 miles with an assumed 10.7¢/kWh rate to illustrate arithmetic, not to establish an electric SUV benchmark.
The Bottom Line
To compare home and public DC fast charging, multiply your SUV’s official kWh/100-mile figure by the actual home and station rates, then divide by 100 for cost per mile. Home energy is usually cheaper, but local tariffs, public fees, subscriptions, and charging access matter. Treat the published U.S. price figures as dated 2024-era context, and keep one-time home equipment and installation expenses separate.
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